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rich59
Joined: 11 Jul 2020 Posts: 15
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Slim
Joined: 05 Mar 2006 Posts: 6612 Location: New England (In the US of A)
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46220 Location: yes
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sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: 7380 Location: Just south of north.
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Mistress Rose
Joined: 21 Jul 2011 Posts: 15972
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rich59
Joined: 11 Jul 2020 Posts: 15
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rich59
Joined: 11 Jul 2020 Posts: 15
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rich59
Joined: 11 Jul 2020 Posts: 15
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rich59
Joined: 11 Jul 2020 Posts: 15
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46220 Location: yes
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Posted: Sun Jul 12, 20 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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best tip for pyrites and flint is super dry, use very easy to ignite tinder, the sparks are tiny and quite cold compared to flint and steel or firesteel
tis a faff but it can be done, tinder in a suitable compression and amount to keep the fire rather that flash and go out if using fluffy stuff, no wind or rain,etc
some prepped mushrooms will take the spark as will some thistle downs
i have not tried it but it might well work for petrol etc on a wicking tinder
pre charred tinder is good with cool sparks(or hot ones for that matter)
whatever you use for ignition having enough tinder and kindling in place as a bundle to fold or to drop the tinder into or set up waiting for a well delivered start by whatever means is best
fine grain or single crystal pyrites is better than the stuff that looks like sugar that got damp and dried out, that tends to knock out small crystals rather than sparks
sharp edge on the flint
practise and then play in the dark , proper dark, after 15 mins adjusting to night mode you might be able to see the sparks if you can still whack em together at a suitable angle etc
the sparks do not last long so tinder needs to be close or in gripped to the pyrites where the sparks will fly off.
takes a while to learn and can take ages to do even with practice
emergencies only, i recon i would look for a decent fire drill long before i got a flint/pyrites fire going and if i did i would carry fire/stoke the fire to keep it going
battery, a bit of wire and a shredded field dressing or tampon is rather unusual and fun, electric sparks from shorted a battery are very effective in the middle of fluff
gas or liquid+ reliable ignition are easy, a decent fire steel quite easy and other stuff less so
i do rather like lens or parabolic mirror if it is sunny
a major point is you dont light a fire with a flame you light it with a "blade"
ie shred or otherwise prepare tinder, kindling and bulk fuel before getting to the first hot bit
dry and/or activated(mechanically or by process)is good for tinders and kindling(and fuel)
kapoc is ace as fluffy tinder, i discovered that when i had to extinguish a kapoc stuffed sleeping mat which i got in a surplus shop
the remains were repurposed as tinder
give the stuff a warm smile and it will be on fire |
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Mistress Rose
Joined: 21 Jul 2011 Posts: 15972
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45672 Location: Essex
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Slim
Joined: 05 Mar 2006 Posts: 6612 Location: New England (In the US of A)
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rich59
Joined: 11 Jul 2020 Posts: 15
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Posted: Mon Jul 13, 20 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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Slim wrote: |
rich59 wrote: |
Hi Slim,
I've got some thoughts on the loss of vigour and I've seen similar on my allotment and I think I have got through it. But, can I first ask some questions? Are we talking S. Nigra or S. Nigra Canadensis? What sort of planting density? Mulched/ underplanted/ weeded? What is the management of area around the planting or the spaces between the rows? |
Sambucus cannadensis, varieties like 'york' 'adams' etc.
Grown in rows with wood/bark mulch, drip irrigation.
Similar to highbush blueberries |
My experience is with the European Sambucus Nigra, so I can't give completely relevant comment.
I have noted articles like https://www.uvm.edu/sites/default/files/media/ElderberryGuideComplete.pdf that mention this problem and various solutions.
On my allotment in the UK - original plantings grew vigorously for 2-3 years. Then they seriously stalled. 2 things I have changed. Firstly, I now feed twice a year with an NPK granular fertilizer. Secondly, I am clearing weeds so that spaces are either bare soil or plastic woven sheet paths.
Again with S. Nigra - I have observed farmers of elderflowers/ berries. Both use organic fertilisers like chicken manure. The more mature farm prunes to near the ground every 3 years or so.
Observing nature - most of the vigorous flowering/ fruiting bushes are ones that get cut back every 2-3 years. They also love being interplanted with other bushes and over growing them. And, general observation that they have wide ranging superficial roots that are probably the main feeders so don't like competition for several feet around the bush.
So my provisional answers for S. Nigra are - feeding/ removing root competition for several feet around/ appropriate pruning, and speculatively possibly interplanting with another shrub crop?
With Canadensis I did recently see comment from a grower that they seem to wander away from the original planting site - New suckers are vigorous away from the original plant. Suggests they exhaust the ground of certain key nutrients. |
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rich59
Joined: 11 Jul 2020 Posts: 15
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