|
|
Author |
|
Message | |
|
Lisa
Joined: 31 May 2005 Posts: 248 Location: Cheshire
|
|
|
|
|
AnneandMike
Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 890 Location: Over the hill and soon to be far away
|
|
|
|
|
dougal
Joined: 15 Jan 2005 Posts: 7184 Location: South Kent
|
Posted: Sun Mar 04, 07 7:10 pm Post subject: |
|
Hi Lisa, have you seen the l-o-n-g thread about clearing a fresh allotment?
Rotovator depth: depends on the rotovator and the soil. The more powerful ones can go deeper. The heavier the soil, (and the more full of tangled roots) the shallower any particular machine will be able to go.
Here's a guess. (Cheshire.) Clay!
It depends on what the soil is like (composition-wise) as to what it'll need done to it. A nice lightish loose soil, turned over by a rotovator, might well need nothing more than raking level.
However, a heavy, claggy clay is likely to need more attention.
It could probably profit from having some humus added (like spent mushroom compost) and maybe some added clag-busting grit and/or lime. Digging it over, spreading 'stuff', and then digging it over again might be one way - with the rotovator subbing for the digging.
Its quite usual to make two passes with a rotovator - the first simply to break the soil, and the second to try and go deeper.
But that's about the soil - not the weeds!
I *know* how little impression digging alone makes on bindweed. And from how deep it can sprout. I have every reason to expect perennial nettles to be as bad.
I really think it sounds like you should be looking for alternatives to just digging and hand extraction of perennial weed roots. .
Three obvious ones are
- use a systemic weedkiller (or get someone that isn't pregnant to apply it for you) - even Geoff Hamilton (favourite uncle of most organic gardeners) thought it reasonable to use when initially clearing the ground. And really they are pretty safe and non-persistant in the soil.
- cover the area with plastic/membrane to exclude light from the weeds for a year or two.
- or an elaboration of that, using a mulch under the cover, and planting things through holes cut in the cover. Some folk (inc Brigit @ ITEBG) really believe in that route - and I think it sounds possible for you.
IMHO rotovate AFTER you have dealt with perennial weeds - NOT before! |
|
|
|
|
Jb
Joined: 08 Jun 2005 Posts: 7761 Location: 91� N
|
|
|
|
|
dougal
Joined: 15 Jan 2005 Posts: 7184 Location: South Kent
|
|
|
|
|
dougal
Joined: 15 Jan 2005 Posts: 7184 Location: South Kent
|
|
|
|
|
Lisa
Joined: 31 May 2005 Posts: 248 Location: Cheshire
|
|
|
|
|
dougal
Joined: 15 Jan 2005 Posts: 7184 Location: South Kent
|
|
|
|
|
Lisa
Joined: 31 May 2005 Posts: 248 Location: Cheshire
|
|
|
|
|
Jb
Joined: 08 Jun 2005 Posts: 7761 Location: 91� N
|
|
|
|
|
mark
Joined: 14 Jul 2005 Posts: 2191 Location: Leeds
|
|
|
|
|
bernie-woman
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 7824 Location: shropshire
|
|
|
|
|
judith
Joined: 16 Dec 2004 Posts: 22789 Location: Montgomeryshire
|
|
|
|
|
Mrs Fiddlesticks
Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Posts: 10460
|
|
|
|
|
Lisa
Joined: 31 May 2005 Posts: 248 Location: Cheshire
|
|
|
|
|
|