Removing ceramic tiles from a plastered brick wall

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Removing ceramic tiles from a plastered brick wall
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Treacodactyl
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 25795
Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 04 8:34 am Post subject:
I think we should start a new thread and see what kinds of adverts we can get up. I must go and have a look in the shooting section....

jema
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28238
Location: escaped from Swindon

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 04 2:05 pm Post subject:

As always we manage to rationalise doing what we want to do

So I have made a start, just around the waste stack, where there appeared to be a shortage of a couple of cm or so, as I want to get 120cm of units along the wall. I Still can't get a good enough look to accurately measure, but I'm very pleased to see there is quite a cavernous space, maybe 6cm or so

Even allowing for the usual little nasties like sloping walls, an estimated 4cm of leeway should be more than enough

jema

jema
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28238
Location: escaped from Swindon

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 04 9:31 am Post subject:
Just got the Demolition hammer (and goggles) This is a real "boys toy" Ferm may be cheap, but this is a damn heavy contraption jema

alison
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Joined: 29 Oct 2004
Posts: 12918
Location: North Devon

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 04 10:28 am Post subject:
Make sure you have plenty of rests, as when your arms start aching you will tend to dig into the plaster too much

Gervase

Joined: 17 Nov 2004
Posts: 8655

Posted: Thu Nov 18, 04 10:54 am Post subject:

A bolster and light club hammer will do the job nicely if you don't fancy forking out for the power tool. Keep the angle of attack nice and shallow and the tiles should ping off fairly easily. Whatever you use, though, the underlying plaster will be scored to some extent, so think about a skim coat. On a flat, vertical surface it isn't that difficult.
Score the wall first with a devil float - a piece of wood with three masonry nails banged through to protrude a couple of mm will do. That will provide a key for the plaster. Wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove dust and reduce suction. Make the mix slightly stiff and use a good stainless steel float - spread it on starting from the top of the work to be covered and working from left to right (if you're right-handed - reverse the direction for southpaws).
When the mix starts to set you can begin the polishing, again using a clean float frequently wiped with a damp rag to stop it from pulling the plaster. Use broad, semicircular sweeps with medium pressure, and keep the float angled very slightly so the leading edge is just above the plaster so as not to gouge out your lovely new surface.
Plastering's one of those trades that takes minutes to acquire and decades to master, but if you're not planning to do hundreds of square feet in a day there's no reason why you shouldn't achieve decent results yourself and get a great deal of satisfaction in the process.

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