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jema Downsizer Moderator
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jema Downsizer Moderator
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thos
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Treacodactyl Downsizer Moderator
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wellington womble
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Gervase
Joined: 17 Nov 2004 Posts: 8655
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 05 9:01 am Post subject: |
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If you've got haired plaster, consider using the same stuff to replace and patch it. Lime plaster is easier to use for the novice as it doesn't set as quickly and can be worked for longer. It's also more ecologically friendly, as it reabsorbs all the CO2 released in its manufacture as it slowly carbonates.
With any plastering, though, the use of the float is crucial to achieve a good finish.
Start by spraying the surface to be plastered with a mister spray (the sort of thing used for spraying plants). That will reduce the suction effect, where a dry substrate simple sucks the moisture out of the plaster before it can set (don't dampen expanded steel lath or reed matting, though, as they have a shiny surface and may just shrug off the plaster).
Then go for the three-coat technique - dub out with a scratch coat of rough stuff to a maximum depth of 10mm and, once it starts to go off and thicken, score the surface to provide a key for the next coat and reduce cracking.
You can score it with a stick or piece of lath, or three joined together like a fork, or make a 'devil float' out of a piece of wood with three nails driven through it. aim for criss-crossing lines two or three inches apart.
When the base coat is almost hard - where it can be scored with a fingernail - apply the next coat of rough stuff to a depth of around 5mm and smooth off with a float. Don't worry about getting a perfect finish - you're just making a good base for the skim coat.
For skimming, float angle is crucial. Apply about 2mm thick and wait for it to start to go off.
That time varies. With gypsum plasters it can be minutes, with lime it can be a couple of hours - you can tell by trial and error, as if the plaster is still too plastic you'll be able to cover your tracks later.
Keep the float clean and damp (use an old sponge, well rinsed), and aim for semicircular sweeps, with the 'rise' left by the passage of the float covered by the next sweep.
Don't press too hard, and don't over-polish. It's a knack that you'll either find comes naturally after some practice or that takes years!
For sources of lime plaster, try:
https://www.womersleys.co.uk/acatalog/renders_plasters.html
https://www.mikewye.co.uk/mikeprices.htm
https://www.thelimecentre.co.uk/
or https://www.lime.org.uk/ (a very helpful bunch)
Ceilings need not be daunting. Make sure the mix is slightly stickier than you think you need and press it home well. If you're using lime mortar or plastreing on laths or reeds, you may find it easier to apply the scratch coat with a round-nosed guaging trowel rather than a float.
To do the tops of walls and ceilings, don't be tempted to use ladders - invest in a couple of trestles and a plank or two, or use plastic milk or beer crates to stand on.
Remember, if you get someone in to do the job, you'll be paying a heck of a lot for not much - particularly if it's just filling in the chases from electrical work. Good luck! |
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46247 Location: yes
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