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James
Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 2866 Location: York
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Tavascarow
Joined: 06 Aug 2006 Posts: 8407 Location: South Cornwall
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cab
Joined: 01 Nov 2004 Posts: 32429
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James
Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 2866 Location: York
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frewen
Joined: 08 Sep 2005 Posts: 11405
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James
Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 2866 Location: York
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45672 Location: Essex
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cab
Joined: 01 Nov 2004 Posts: 32429
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James
Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 2866 Location: York
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sickpup
Joined: 19 Jun 2008 Posts: 164 Location: Amble,Northumberland
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cab
Joined: 01 Nov 2004 Posts: 32429
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 09 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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James wrote: |
tahir wrote: |
James wrote: |
I've not found a source of "Alba", but have tracked "Cae Rhos Lligwy" down to the agroforestry research trust (out of stock till autumn 09) and The Herb garden & historical plant nursery, Gaerwen, Anglesy (who claim to be the originators of this variety; no info on availability). |
Just seen this, yes, Martin's the best source for elderberry cultivars |
Sorry for my ignorance, Tahir, but... Martin who?
I've been given a couple of recommended locations by someone on a wine making forum, so will be keeping an eye open come autumn. |
Tahir hasn't answered, I'll jump in if I may...
Martin runs the ART. Its pretty much the case that Martin IS the ART, as far as I can tell. And he's an excellent chap, very helpful and free his with good advice. Has a staggering array of very interesting plants available too. |
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lottie
Joined: 11 Aug 2005 Posts: 5059 Location: ceredigion
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James
Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 2866 Location: York
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 09 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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sickpup wrote: |
how do you take a cutting from a tree? didnt think it was possible |
I've read a few different methods for taking elderberry cuttings, but this seems (from one who's not yet taken an elderberry cutting) to be the most likely to work:
use one year old wood, taking the stem off were it joins the two year old wood. Ripping the stem off, including some 'heal' (the join between the 1 year and 2 year wood) is best. Allow it to callus, then re-plant in late winter.
I'm not sure if you need the full length of the 1 year old cane, or if you can get away with using a short (1 ft?) length with the heal. I think I'll try both.
Elderberry breaks bud quite early, so I'd be tempted to plant some straight into potting compost and allow them to callus in-situ.
If elder is like any other soft fruit, callusing occurs prefferentially in warmer temperatures, so only starts to happen when the weather warms up in spring. If rooting is to be succesfull, the heal should callus before the buds break. To increase the speed of callusing on soft wood cuttings, I put stems close to the edge of a black pot left outside. The pot warms up, but the wind keeps the stems cool. I've also hear of putting a small amount of damp sawdust around the base of the the stems and rapping in black plastic & elastic banding it on. The root area will be slightly warmer than the stems, so will callus before bud break.
Oddly, I read one account saying that elderberries were one of the few plants that would root upside down. I'm not at all sure how true this is.... |
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87sambucus
Joined: 06 Jun 2009 Posts: 2
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45672 Location: Essex
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