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mousjoos

Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1986
Location: VERY Sunny SW France

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 2:49 pm Post subject:

tahir wrote:

MJ, a few questions

I've decided to go with hinged doors (this is on the small unit with the single drawer above) I'm leaving 3mm gap between carcass and door, is that OK?

***The gap is generally dictated by the type of hinge used ie if you use a traditional butt hinge then the thickness of one leaf of the hinge is the gap most likely left around the door. On a cabinet this size you could probably use "flush fit" hinges...basically a butt hinge where one leaf is smaller & fit within the other...if in doubt, ask your ironmonger....but usually 2mm is more than enough.

How much gap do I need to allow between doors?

***See above answer. All gaps should be equal

Should the doors be in 25mm or 18mm (I will have both thicknesses available)?

***18mm should be more the adequate...weight is always a consideration

I've attached the plans

Click to download file

[/b]

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45669
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 3:07 pm Post subject:
Thanks mj

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46207
Location: yes

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 3:54 pm Post subject:
just a thought but blum hinges can make for a very tidy job with such cupboards , it needs a slightly different design to the door arrangements but overall it is easier to get a perfect fit than with traditional hinge types. based on many i have made/fitted/commissioned.

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45669
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 3:55 pm Post subject:
I think I'll go for euro hinges, have just been looking at them on hafele site

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46207
Location: yes

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 4:01 pm Post subject:
examples the hickory product does not require machined holes in doors/frames but will not be as stable or last as well as the types that do. having used a few makes over the decades the genuine blum seem to last very well it seems a bit complex compared to butts or flush but it is far easier to get the doors to fit using adjustable hinges ,good call

sean
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 42219
Location: North Devon

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 4:03 pm Post subject:

tahir wrote:

I think I'll go for euro hinges, have just been looking at them on hafele site

Better get it built before they activate Article 50 then.

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45669
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 4:17 pm Post subject:

sean wrote:

tahir wrote:

I think I'll go for euro hinges, have just been looking at them on hafele site

Better get it built before they activate Article 50 then.

We don't need that pressure Ron. (actually cots are very high pressure, for some they generally want them whilst the child is still quite small)

mousjoos

Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1986
Location: VERY Sunny SW France

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 4:28 pm Post subject:
So Blum & Euro appear to be the same beast Easiest way to ensure accuracy with Blum / Euro.....correct hinge cutter (drills a blind hole & has cutting wings ensuring clean edges to the hole) Edge of the hole (on the door) should be 4mm from the edge of the door. Small pillar drill is best, but a router with a 3/8 or 10mm collet can be used instead

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46207
Location: yes

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 6:27 pm Post subject:
there are a variety of design details and material specs among the various brands, my advice is you get what you pay for and some are very different in quality . blum.inc make high quality ones with good tolerances in screw cutting and part fitting, thick nickel plating and solid parts. some makers dont

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45669
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 16 6:52 pm Post subject:
I found to my cost that using cheap crap doesn't work, I have a stack of cheap metal drawer sides/runners that I've decided not to use.

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