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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46247 Location: yes
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Posted: Sat May 08, 21 9:02 am Post subject: |
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good grained naturally dried oak is a joy to work with
oak is not as toxic as some but any fine dust is best blocked with a mask
when it is done will it be painted or oiled?
several coats of boiled linseed, start with mostly turpentine, get progressively more oily on each coat, in many ways it outperforms most paints
a bit of driers to get the time scale reasonable, permanganate ones work very well, but if you want to play with flake white rubbed into the grain when you start it is traditional and it does work
with oak if you are going to paint it as a super smooth surface, when it looks smooth raise the grain with a damp sponge , let it dry and then give it final sanding, then sand between coats
for oil raise the grain, let it dry, first thin coat of oil, then final sanding
in many ways i would prefer oil for oak, not least it looks better with age, and it is easier to maintain
oil or paint, get the first few coats on before glazing
with pegged joints if i was oiling i would give the pegs, mortices and tenons a decent covering before assembly |
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Mistress Rose
Joined: 21 Jul 2011 Posts: 15997
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45676 Location: Essex
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Nick
Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Posts: 34535 Location: Hereford
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Nick
Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Posts: 34535 Location: Hereford
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Treacodactyl Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 25795 Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
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Nick
Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Posts: 34535 Location: Hereford
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46247 Location: yes
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Nick
Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Posts: 34535 Location: Hereford
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46247 Location: yes
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Nick
Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Posts: 34535 Location: Hereford
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Posted: Mon May 10, 21 9:54 am Post subject: |
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Yeah, the flashing belongs to the roof that was already there. I am hoping to be able to repair and reuse in situ with minimal work I think I'll get some of the rafters up, to be able to create a work bench, and a scaff tower beneath. Some repair work is needed, for sure. Luckily, the new roof is just longer, not wider, so I am not anticipating too much grief. I'm incorporating some new materials in for sealing, too, which should help... |
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46247 Location: yes
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45676 Location: Essex
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46247 Location: yes
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Posted: Mon May 10, 21 11:28 am Post subject: |
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re lead a few old man hints from an old man who likes the stuff for houses and arty stuff
if you need it to be waterproof for a long time the less joins the better, torch weld rolled joints are ok but not for a porch
rolls come in assorted lengths and widths
30 mm in a clean slot in the wall* back to that, 100 mm or a bit more vertical, 150 mm gently resting on the roof, 300mm code 3 should do it
(unless you are going for full welsh slating or whatever)
if you can, support the lead with a plank until the wedges are in, a few under and a few over is good if you can wrangle that, otherwise just drive the top ones in with hammer and then a fat punch
ps new is not much more expensive than scrap the old and a bit and avoids a lot of swearing
* clean slot, roll a bit of lead to maybe a 20mm roll, bat it flat, and then hammer a chisel point on the end, cut off enough length to give a wedge that will hold the flashing in the slot when hammered in
fill slot at the back, install lead, let it settle, fill top line. 1c/1l/4sss works (i do not know how long posh adhesive stuff would last) |
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Nick
Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Posts: 34535 Location: Hereford
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