1. IMO yes for durability and looks but not cost.
2. Sawmill I use, cut to order, so no stock sizes. They price by volume, so no price difference between sizes.
3. I would agree with dpack, tho I don't know a 'rule of thumb' for sizes.
4. Stainless steel ringshanks. Sawmill may sell them.
30x150 will be strong enough, but how far are they spanning ? If the span is too big they might bow/twist (horizontally as opposed to sagging) My guess would be max 1.2m span between supports or noggins to prevent bowing.
I take it the rsj's are to keep the post feet clear of the ground - and/or supporting the posts in such a manner that if the post bottom rots the structure is not compromised.
noggins is a good idea ,they do add considerable stability.
im not sure how much a mature wisteria weighs but if in full leaf it will provide quite a "sail" in wind but with 150 x 30 on maybe 400 centers(your drawing seems that with 100 centers it will be more wood than air on top) the top timber work will be strong , i might go for maybe 150x 150 for the uprights and have a pair of uprights each end
the issue that needs thought is attaching the top to the uprights and making sure the uprights are braced so as a wind cannot "fold" the structure to either side or end and that the sole plate/rsj is solidly attached to the floor to avoid any "tumbleweed " type excitement
a simple triangle brace from uprights to roof (along and across from each post should hold the top part rigid ,the joint to the sole plate/rsj can easily be braced in the along direction with a triangular brace,the side to side direction might need a pair of short 90 degree extension to the sole plate/rsj to hold the side to side braces on each side.
I think your beams are cut too deep too. You only really need a fairly shallow trough for the cross beams to sit in. Otherwise I wouldn't like to comment on the dimensions of the beams as I don't know to much about that. You should be able to get some idea by looking up dimensions for timber framing on the internet.
Oak is fine untreated for at least 20 years, but make sure you have all the sap wood cut off. Don't use concrete of mild steel on it. Traditionally it is fastened with oak pegs, and these are quite strong enough and of course can't be corroded by the tannins in the wood.
Chestnut is an alternative, and if you are willing to go for round wood, you could make the whole thing a lot cheaper. Durability outdoors is similar.
Sadly there doesn't seem to much chestnut in Essex. We are fortunate here that we are quite near the chestnut growing areas of Sussex/Surrey/Kent. If we want chestnut we just chat to a member of our coppice group, or another man we know, depending on what is needed. We get some oak from our own wood, but most of that is better for roofing shingles than beams. We did get one trunk that has been down a long time that we hope will mill well though.
Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 1986 Location: VERY Sunny SW France
Posted: Sun Nov 29, 15 11:08 am Post subject:
Have you tried Atkin & Cripps in Bishops Stortford ?
Also many years ago we bought timber from a firm near Maldon, whose name now escapes me
Other than that, I can only suggest folks like Blumsoms, Silvermans, or Goldbergs...haven't googled to see if these places still trade, but as they are (or were) importers you may have more luck...chestnut may not be "exotic" enough for them, but here it's a staple timber so may be viable for them to import
I'll try the bishops stortfotd one, the othersdefinitely dont
Thanks all
Pilsbury
Joined: 13 Dec 2004 Posts: 5645 Location: East london/Essex
Posted: Sun Nov 29, 15 11:24 pm Post subject:
There are also about 6 timber merchants just off the a13 towards thames view, turn right insted of left at the junction thstvyou use to head to me.
I remember my dad saying there was one or 2 thst did some ofvthe more exotic hardwoods.
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