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mousjoos

Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1986
Location: VERY Sunny SW France

Posted: Thu May 05, 16 11:28 am Post subject:

tahir wrote:

Just look at the way the drawer sits

You live, and sometimes you learn

For drawer sides whether dovetailed or not, try to use "drawer side ply"...it's not generally called that outside the trade, but is uni directional ply which means edges can be sanded without the need to veneer them first

Drawer sides should be at least a couple of millimetres wider than the front to allow fitting, making sure that all the top edges are flush...DSP also planes well making fitting easy

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu May 05, 16 11:38 am Post subject:

mousjoos wrote:

Drawer sides should be at least a couple of millimetres wider than the front to allow fitting, making sure that all the top edges are flush...DSP also planes well making fitting easy

Sorry, not quite with you there, I know it's going to be difficult to explain on t'internet but is tehre a diagram or something you could point me at? Would love to be better at drawers

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46249
Location: yes

Posted: Thu May 05, 16 11:42 am Post subject:

re the ply vs mdf thing.

although sheet mdf is fairly stable if dry and stored flat good ply is better .

with either sealing any cut edges before construction ,pilot holes etc during and then sealing inside and out after will increase long term stability.

any large sheets will be more stable if braced.have a look in well made antique furniture etc for tried and tested bracing techniques.

meeting odin in a wardrobe is likely to be rather too exciting when choosing what to wear

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu May 05, 16 11:44 am Post subject:

tahir wrote:

mousjoos wrote:

Drawer sides should be at least a couple of millimetres wider than the front to allow fitting, making sure that all the top edges are flush...DSP also planes well making fitting easy

Sorry, not quite with you there, I know it's going to be difficult to explain on t'internet but is tehre a diagram or something you could point me at? Would love to be better at drawers

Are saying I should oversize drawer fronts for inset drawers, and plain to fit?

mousjoos

Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1986
Location: VERY Sunny SW France

Posted: Thu May 05, 16 12:14 pm Post subject:

tahir wrote:

mousjoos wrote:

Drawer sides should be at least a couple of millimetres wider than the front to allow fitting, making sure that all the top edges are flush...DSP also planes well making fitting easy

Sorry, not quite with you there, I know it's going to be difficult to explain on t'internet but is tehre a diagram or something you could point me at? Would love to be better at drawers

Are saying I should oversize drawer fronts for inset drawers, and plain to fit?

If a drawer (front) sits within a frame, the sides should be 2-3 mm wider than the front, or at least that much lower if the sides & front have been machined to the same width...the easiest way to visualise it is to always think of the finished drawer, & not as pieces ie sides, front etc....I know this sounds complicated but trying to put it simply, to fit the drawer correctly & more easily, you need a bit more on the bottom of the sides than on the bottom of the front....

mousjoos

Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1986
Location: VERY Sunny SW France

Posted: Thu May 05, 16 12:19 pm Post subject:

tahir wrote:

mousjoos wrote:

Drawer sides should be at least a couple of millimetres wider than the front to allow fitting, making sure that all the top edges are flush...DSP also planes well making fitting easy

Sorry, not quite with you there, I know it's going to be difficult to explain on t'internet but is tehre a diagram or something you could point me at? Would love to be better at drawers

Drawers are very simple

Conventional drawers rely on components being flat; edges being parallel; ends being square....

meet these criteria & not much can go wrong

careful assembly makes a big difference ie careful & precise & not over zealous cramping; & no excess glue !

If ever you venture into dovetailing by hand or machine, golden rule is that dovetails only go together once

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu May 05, 16 1:35 pm Post subject:
Dovetails?

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu May 05, 16 1:36 pm Post subject:

mousjoos wrote:

Drawers are very simple

I believe I'm simpler

mousjoos

Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1986
Location: VERY Sunny SW France

Posted: Thu May 05, 16 3:55 pm Post subject:

tahir wrote:

mousjoos wrote:

Drawers are very simple

I believe I'm simpler

They're basically boxes

Dovetails....google it & see what you think

They are not obligatory in the construction of drawers

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu May 26, 16 3:12 pm Post subject:
This is the laundry room, with copper pipe handles. Click to see full size image Click to see full size image Click to see full size image

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46249
Location: yes

Posted: Thu May 26, 16 7:26 pm Post subject:
i like the detergent cupboard ,very user friendly .

sean
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 42219
Location: North Devon

Posted: Thu May 26, 16 9:51 pm Post subject:
He's using Fairy tabs though. Capitalist running dog of the imperialist Procter and Gamble hegemony that he is. The cupboards look nice mind.

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex

Posted: Thu May 26, 16 10:03 pm Post subject:
That's Mrs capitalist running dog, I don't touch no laundry

Nick

Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford

Posted: Fri May 27, 16 5:16 am Post subject:
Slave master, too. Good man.

tahir

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex

Posted: Fri May 27, 16 6:30 am Post subject:
Child labour, slave labour, all is good.....

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