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gil
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 08 Jun 2005
Posts: 18415
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 Posted: Thu Jul 06, 06 8:23 pm Post subject: |
 
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First progress report from scythe novice :
1. Saturday : set up scythe per instructions, which was easy.
Tip : if you get a wooden snath, apply the 50:50 mix of raw linseed oil and turps (substitute) to snath and handles before you start putting the bits together. Also oil the threads of the bolts before fitting the handles. This saves taking it all to bits and starting again after you've read the destructions.
Took the scythe up to the allotment and attempted to clear thistles and docks from the next door abandoned plot. Not a good place to start : too worried about damaging the blade on unknown rocks / rubble. Made a mess, and couldn't get the rhythm / swing. SO had a go too, ended up using it as a blade to hack with, but not to great effect.
2. Tuesday evening : back home. Had a brief go at the hay meadow (lawn). Much better experience. Heavens ! It does what it says on the tin, so to speak (i.e. cuts grass). As fast as a strimmer, more neatly. Result not even, but at least the grass is no longer 3' high. Beaten back indoors by evening midges.
3. Thursday afternoon : started on the access track from the road-end. Took the whetstones with me, one in each pocket. They weigh very little. Some kind of holster for them would be useful. Cutting a mix of red and white clover, chervil, grasses gone to seed, etc., quite thick. Again, less messy and sappy than with a strimmer, and did not seem to annoy the insects as much. Easy to tell when the blade needs whetted, and very quick and gentle to re-sharpen. However, my shoulders and elbows were getting a bit sore after a while, and I was developing a blister on one hand : I think there are muscles that have to be built up gradually to scythe really well. I'm thinking about adjusting the handle positions in the light of use. Still not got the hang of it, as I can't yet get a full swathe cut without hanking on the grass part-way through, but I can see and feel what it ought to be like, and there were a few times I managed to achieve some kind of flow for a few strokes. One thing seems to be to swing the scythe with muscles [arms and sides] under [some] control all the way round, not launching in and hoping the momentum will carry me through.
I don't reckon that's bad going for first experiments with only a book for guidance and some kind of mental image of what scything should be like. I expect it to get a lot better. Just read the bit in the book where it says that a scythe doesn't start to cut properly until it's been peened a few times, and I haven't done that at all yet.
Initial impressions are that it is a great implement, well worth having and using, better than a strimmer/brushcutter in many respects (not even mentioned the lack of noise and vibration, no numb fingers, and no worries about running out of petrol). |
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deanom
Joined: 19 Apr 2006
Posts: 93
Location: Lincolnshire
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| Posted: Thu Jul 06, 06 8:39 pm Post subject: Some help |
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Hi Gil
thanks for the PM, and have replied.
To carry your stone, get a two pint, plastic milk bottle, cut off the top, but leaving the handle intact. Thread your belt through the handle, 3/4 fill with water, add a drop of vinegar, et voila!
To avoid arm and shoulder fatigue, whet more frequently, and try and use your waist more. Difficult to explain, but use the waist as the engine, and your arms to steer.
Peening is quite simple. I'm guessing that you're using a jig?
You're right to say that it needs three to five goes before the blade gets really good. It's better to peen, then use the blade for a bit, before peening again, especially with a jig. You really will notice a difference.
The book gives good advice on setting up the handles on the snath, but play around with it until it works for you. I found that as my technique improved (grass), it felt more comfortable with a bigger length from the lower hand to the blade, and a wider grip between both hands.
Great to see another mower, and please ask if something is not quite going as you would hope.
Regards
Deano |
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gil
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 08 Jun 2005
Posts: 18415
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| Posted: Thu Jul 06, 06 9:13 pm Post subject: |
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I've not yet got anything to peen with, but was hoping to teach myself to peen without a jig, just a peening hammer and portable (pocket) anvil, outdoors. The book makes it seem fairly straightforward. (!?)
As for 2-pt plastic milk bottles with handles: don't think we have these up here, but I think I know what you mean and will keep a lookout for someting of the kind. I've been using the whetstones dry and blowing/brushing them clean after use. Whetting was so quick and easy it would be fine to do more frequently, and it really made a difference.
"try and use your waist more. Difficult to explain, but use the waist as the engine, and your arms to steer. "
Yes, that's what I was meaning when I said
"to swing the scythe with muscles [arms and sides] under [some] control all the way round"
The side muscles seemed to be most important. A bit like working the side abdominals in the gym with a barbell pole across the shoulders : to get an effect, you twist slowly and work the muscles under control. I think the sore left elbow and l.hand blister was from trying too hard to pull the scythe across instead of letting the sides do the twisting work.
It seems as though a well-designed implement has a physical logic of its own which helps lead you towards correct use (if you listen to it). It's interesting trying to communicate with words over the net about an activity / movement that is so physical, and I guess once learnt becomes a form of tacit knowledge (like how to ride a pushbike or knead bread dough) that can be hard to explain in words. You have to do it and feel it to know.
Bugs and TD : I'm really enjoying starting to scythe, and looking forward to using it well. |
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46287
Location: yes
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deanom
Joined: 19 Apr 2006
Posts: 93
Location: Lincolnshire
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| Posted: Fri Jul 07, 06 8:48 pm Post subject: Plastic |
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Gil
My description of the bottle was not good. It's just the normal plastic container that supermarket milk comes in. Available from 1 pint up to 6.
If you can't find something suitable just take a little bucket/ container with you and leave it close by. The water is important, mainly because it helps to stop the particles of metal clogging up the stone. The blade will be sharper as a result.
You're right about trying to explain an action verbally. That's why I haven't published an article on the site yet. Thinking about doing a "why" article, rather than a "how to" one.
The peening jig is a really good way of starting. The price is not excessive. Downside is like most of the anvils sold over here, it needs mounting in a block of wood, which makes it less portable. Luckily, most of the time you don't need to peen where you are working. I have a field version which I found in a barn in France. I had seen one previously, and was gobsmacked to see one rusting in a barn. If you decide to ignore the jig, go for the narrow anvil, with a normal hammer. It's easier! Blade face down on the anvil, hammer the underneath. If you end up with the narrow hammer, and wider anvil, other way round. Wide, flat surface always against the bottom of the blade.
For anyone other than Gil reading this, please do not be put off. It's much easier to do than it might seem when you read this, and The Scythe Book explains it really well. |
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gil
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 08 Jun 2005
Posts: 18415
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deanom
Joined: 19 Apr 2006
Posts: 93
Location: Lincolnshire
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Treacodactyl
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 25795
Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
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deanom
Joined: 19 Apr 2006
Posts: 93
Location: Lincolnshire
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| Posted: Wed Jul 12, 06 7:53 pm Post subject: Hay |
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I didn't store this batch, as I don't have any animals yet. I gave it away to someone in my village.
I intend to store it in a rack, which I will have to build. I am planning on a simple frame, with a weldmesh floor, and removeable weld mesh panels for the sides. I have all of the bits here, I just need to sort it all out.
The wheat and barley is a thought for next year. I want some for bread and beer making, and for animal feed. For this I will need staddle stones, to sit the supporting beams on top of. I have no idea if anybody still makes any that would work.
Like everything else, so many things to do, and not enough time/money.
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gil
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 08 Jun 2005
Posts: 18415
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deanom
Joined: 19 Apr 2006
Posts: 93
Location: Lincolnshire
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gil
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 08 Jun 2005
Posts: 18415
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| Posted: Wed Aug 09, 06 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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Hay was raked and barrowed, and is at present spread out on sub-base floor of shed, so not properly stacked or owt. Will be good to get it shifted to my neighbour. I usually use it for kindling winter bonfires, not for feeding.
Difference from machine-made (though hard to tell as this year was such exceptionally good haymaking weather) is that the scythed hay seems lighter, crisper, more intact, neater [not chewed up, likewise the grass has recovered more quickly].
I ended up with both a peening jig and an anvil. Haven't tried either yet, as I'm in full swing of harvesting and processing fruit and veg, and also setting up a related business, so have not mown for three weeks or so. |
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deanom
Joined: 19 Apr 2006
Posts: 93
Location: Lincolnshire
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Sally Too
Joined: 14 Sep 2006
Posts: 2511
Location: N.Ireland
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deanom
Joined: 19 Apr 2006
Posts: 93
Location: Lincolnshire
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