|
|
 |
Author |
|
| Message | |
|
treehuggermum
Joined: 16 Feb 2005
Posts: 43
Location: Surrey
|
|
|
|
 |
treehuggermum
Joined: 16 Feb 2005
Posts: 43
Location: Surrey
|
|
|
|
|
sean
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 42219
Location: North Devon
|
|
|
|
|
jema
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28239
Location: escaped from Swindon
|
|
|
|
|
treehuggermum
Joined: 16 Feb 2005
Posts: 43
Location: Surrey
|
|
|
|
|
JC
Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 19
Location: Herts
|
|
|
|
|
tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex
|
|
|
|
|
sean
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 42219
Location: North Devon
|
|
|
|
|
judith
Joined: 16 Dec 2004
Posts: 22789
Location: Montgomeryshire
|
|
|
|
|
moogie
Joined: 02 Feb 2005
Posts: 525
Location: Near Bridgend
|
|
|
|
|
tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex
|
|
|
|
|
Treacodactyl
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 25795
Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
|
|
|
|
|
Gervase
Joined: 17 Nov 2004
Posts: 8655
|
 Posted: Mon Mar 14, 05 2:57 pm Post subject: |
 
|
| moogie wrote: |
| Does any one know how long it takes damp treated walls to dry out once they have been injected/tanked? I had mine done about 14 months ago and they are three foot stone walls and they haven't dried out yet - are they meant to take that length of time or should I get the builder back in? Any suggestions? |
If they're stone walls, make sure that whatever's on the outside is breathable and that the drainage is adequate.
Too often you'll find a modern impermeable cement render on a stone wall and, as you've got no effective damp-proof course or cavity (as you have with modern brick walls), they will wick moisture from the substrate and the only way it can escape is into your house. Modern materials and stone houses don't sit happily together if you have any risk of damp.
Consider using a breathable lime-based render instead, and think about having a french ditch running the length of the wall outside, set below the level of the interior floor - modern perforated drainage pipe is ideal - so that surface water gets taken away from it.
If it's been injected, though, I'm afraid you may have to live with it as the damage has been done - though you might consider taking action against the firm wot did it, as injection treatments for stone walls are not a good idea, and if they advised you otherwise they're cowboys! |
|
|
|
|
judith
Joined: 16 Dec 2004
Posts: 22789
Location: Montgomeryshire
|
|
|
|
|
tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45676
Location: Essex
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 17, 05 12:57 pm Post subject: |
|
Finally got something for you from a member of the AECB (Association for Environmentally Conscious Building):
| Dan wrote: |
That's a really good question, that is.
The best option is exterior cladding, because it maximises the thermal mass of the brickwork (ie. the bricks will absorb heat and gradually release it back into the house, maintaining an even temperature). Exterior cladding can be done with PIR foam boards such as Kingspan, which are then rendered over for weatherproofing. This is a good website for info on this:
https://www.theyellowhouse.org.uk/
The problems with this technique are that it can be difficult to get the detailing right around windows and doors; there isn't always room under the edge of the roof for the walls to gain thickness; and it's not always appropriate for old terraced or semi-detached houses.
Internal insulation can be easier, but involves a fair amount of upheaval. It's ideal to do if a house is being completley refurbished. Skirting and ceiling coving have to be altered or replaced, radiators may have to be moved, and there's not much point to interior wall insulation if you're not also going to lift the floorboards and insulate all the under-floor cavities, as if that's left undone, there's a cold-bridge formed by the void.
Again, PIR foam board can be used, then plasterboarded over - it's nasty stuff but it's effective. Plasterboard with a built in polystyrene backing (e.g. Gyproc Thermal Board Super) is probably the best option in terms of ease of application and price, and it comes in various thicknesses, but polystyrene is a very energy intensive material to produce, and won't biodegrade - same problems as PIR foam.
Another option is timber studwork with cellulose (recycled newspaper) insulation fitted into it, which can then be plasterboarded over. This is excellent in terms of embodied energy and toxicity, but the problems are that it takes a fair bit of work, needs a ventilated air-gap between it and the brickwork, and to be effective needs to be at least 100mm thick, which will take up too much space in a lot of houses.
One technique which I'm working on at the moment, and which I'm sure can be successfully used on interior brick walls, is a straw/lime/clay render, similar to the one Keith Hall describes applying to a straw bale house in his article in BFF 14, page 58.
This can be applied straight to bare brick, up to two inches thick, and is at once a plaster finish and an insulant. It's not possible to acheive a perfect flat finish as with traditional plastering, but it's fine provided you like the look of slightly wavy, lumpy, undulating walls. It would be very messy, fairly labour intensive to produce, and possibly quite time consuming in the application, but I still really like the idea.
I've seen it done in France, and I'm waiting for the exact recipe - I'll post details here once I've tried it. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
View Latest Posts