|
|
Author |
|
Message | |
|
tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45671 Location: Essex
|
|
|
|
|
Treacodactyl Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 25795 Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
|
|
|
|
|
mrsnesbitt
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 1576
|
|
|
|
|
scarecrow
Joined: 15 Dec 2004 Posts: 115 Location: Manchester, Up North
|
|
|
|
|
mrsnesbitt
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 1576
|
|
|
|
|
scarecrow
Joined: 15 Dec 2004 Posts: 115 Location: Manchester, Up North
|
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
|
|
|
|
McLay455
Joined: 23 Nov 2004 Posts: 89 Location: West of Scotland
|
|
|
|
|
Bugs
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 10744
|
|
|
|
|
tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45671 Location: Essex
|
|
|
|
|
McLay455
Joined: 23 Nov 2004 Posts: 89 Location: West of Scotland
|
Posted: Sat Dec 18, 04 7:14 am Post subject: |
|
I can let you have an article, but no pictures -- since the hives were burnt due to infection, and it put me off the hobby. Three years hard work for 20 lbs of honey.
Sadly, the bees had to be killed too -- I had built two hives and established them from one brood and a swarm.
I took three years an a lot of feeding to build the hives up to productive size,since the season is fairly short here.
I built Smith hives with top beeways,and the only tools you need are a circular saw with rise and a fence.
A right angle jig and cramps to hold the wood in place whilst you screw it up, and a flat surface big enough to accomodate the
brood and super sections one or two at a time.
The important thing is to have the top and bottom edges of the hive sections flat and reasonably draught proof.
You can seal the half lap joints with silicone sealer, and tongue and groove floor boards can be built and glued for the correct heights
My feeder was a Rowse Miller built with exterior grade ply and floorboard and made liquid tight by running beads of silicone around the inside -- if you are going for several hives make the same number of feeders, so you don't get robbing and fighting.
Though it is out of date a bit, I recommend 'A guide to Bees and Honey' by Ted Hooper ISBN 0 7137 1382 8
I recommend that you print out the plans from the Scottish Beekeeper website and work from them, as I did. Just remember to make your beeways top beeways.
Their article is much better than any I could write -- and you get
all the experience of beekeeping in Scotland there. |
|
|
|
|
tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45671 Location: Essex
|
|
|
|
|
Treacodactyl Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 25795 Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
|
|
|
|
|
McLay455
Joined: 23 Nov 2004 Posts: 89 Location: West of Scotland
|
|
|
|
|
Treacodactyl Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 25795 Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
|
|
|
|
|
|