Garden steps

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jema
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28235
Location: escaped from Swindon

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 18 6:37 pm Post subject: Garden steps
Need to build steps down from one deck to another. Will be done by taking a 1.2m slice out of the higher deck giving 3 40cm steps. I'm torn on how to do it though, I'm tempted by brick, but thats quite a lot of construction as even the lower deck is about 40cm or so above actual ground level. I don't overly like wooden steps though

sean
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 42219
Location: North Devon

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 18 7:10 pm Post subject:
Do you mean 40cm rise/step? That seems like a lot.

jema
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28235
Location: escaped from Swindon

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 18 8:24 pm Post subject:
bleh , missed a number out, the rise is 60cm. So each step will be a 15cm rise.

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46217
Location: yes

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 18 10:24 pm Post subject:

wood with a good surface/ edge strip is fairly safe, easy and cheap. it wont last more than a couple of decades.

1/4 " to dust granite, snowchem, rebar, good shuttering and casting can be awesome practical and if given the full surfacing protocols is semi precious in look. not cheap if bought in and not easy to learn.

as with all options it needs good ,suitable prep.

depending on the ground ( which can make it cost prohibitive ) and how much work you fancy ( or can pay for ) well placed, well chosen stones can be very effective and stunning good looking. that version needs doing extremely well as it isnt just about the look.
if you are luck with the ground it might be the most beautiful, practical and cost effective option.

brick and precast step slabs also depends on the ground, bricks need to sit on a stable base and whatever the design ensuring a stable base is the prime factor in deciding on brick. materials are cheap, good labour is worth a lot .

a couple of things to consider:
does the whole slope move? if so should the steps move with it or it should it move under them.

and

is a gentle slope a better option? can it be done?, look good?, be easy to use? and be cost effective?
wiping a path around a contour gradient can be done in a surprisingly small space:wink:

ps coppice steps can be made with an axe and a coppice, they work very well in sensible footwear

up/down/down /up is lots of fun

Mistress Rose

Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15970

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 18 8:16 am Post subject:
You can get non-slip edging for steps, and that is probably sensible whatever you use to make them. Brick, stone, concrete or wood all get slippery if they keep getting wet.

jema
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28235
Location: escaped from Swindon

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 18 10:51 am Post subject:
May stretch it longer than 1.2m, but I'm struggling to justify anything more than joists and decking steps. I'm curious if I visit B&Q for the joists, whether they will have removed the display wooden steps they have had for more than a year that are not only flimsy to look at, but are actually broken.... has anyone actually bought these I wonder, what sort of idiot would?

Shan

Joined: 13 Jan 2009
Posts: 9075
Location: South Wales

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 18 11:57 am Post subject:
What about wood frame and gravels steps:

jema
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28235
Location: escaped from Swindon

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 18 11:59 am Post subject:
easy enough on an actual slope. This is on thin air! the lower deck the steps go down to, is about 40cm from actual ground level.

Shan

Joined: 13 Jan 2009
Posts: 9075
Location: South Wales

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 18 12:55 pm Post subject:
A series of wooden box platforms filled with gravel.

Slim

Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 6612
Location: New England (In the US of A)

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 18 1:11 pm Post subject:

That would be a lot of weight, particularly when waterlogged

There's a reason that most steps are made of wood.....

Metal could be a fetching contemporary design accent and a home job if you have access to a welder, though that's something I'd rather buy pre-fab or hire out.

I think you can purchase stringers and treads and customize to the length/height you need and width, and fasten with hardware if welders (individuals or machinery) are not readily available.

Jam Lady

Joined: 28 Dec 2006
Posts: 2571
Location: New Jersey, USA

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 18 3:46 pm Post subject:
At an arboretum I once saw wooden steps with chicken wire tightly fastened to the tread. Non slip when wet. If there are sufficient joists / supports beneath the treads the steps should be secure and stable. Make steps from locust or redwood or teak or cypress and they'll be rot resistant. All depends on what's available, what you are willing to spend, and ecological concerns.

Mistress Rose

Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15970

Posted: Tue Feb 20, 18 7:25 am Post subject:
Chicken wire is quite a common covering for steps Jam Lady. On home ones it might be all right, but it tends to wear and break and needs replacing fairly frequently. I have seen it on too many wooden surfaces in the UK in a rather dilapidated and dangerous condition, but is good if kept maintained.

jema
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28235
Location: escaped from Swindon

Posted: Tue Feb 20, 18 8:13 am Post subject:
I'm thinking the steps will be decking and maybe as long as 50cm, so not much more of a slip risk than the deck itself. I have decided on constructing this with basic joisting. It's the cheapest, simplest, laziest approach, which was half the reason for posting! If something feels like its ticking all the "cop out" boxes it raises an alarm.

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46217
Location: yes

Posted: Tue Feb 20, 18 2:55 pm Post subject:
with good carpentry and pre treated timber it should be safe and cost effective.

jema
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28235
Location: escaped from Swindon

Posted: Tue Feb 20, 18 4:00 pm Post subject:

dpack wrote:

with good carpentry and pre treated timber it should be safe and cost effective.

Well given the frame will be hidden, I'll settle for shoddy carpentry and large coach screws.

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